
Art of the blend
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Some things are destined for disaster when you bring them together. Pizza and pineapple, drinking and driving, or tariffs and wine all spring to mind. There are also times when things come together and magic happens -- milk and cookies, tacos and Tuesdays, Lennon and McCartney, space and time. Food and wine parings, like Champagne and caviar or steak and Cabernet Sauvignon, are considered classics in the culinary world.
Winemakers have their own version of bringing two or more things together to create something greater than the sum of its parts. It is called blending. Bordeaux is famous for its red and white blends. Winemakers in other parts of the world often refer to their red blends as Bordeaux-style blends. The Rhone Valley is another region known for its blends, one of which has become so famous it has its own shorthand – GSM, which stands for Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.
Some regions have strict regulations around blends. In Tuscany, to earn the Chianti DOC/G recognition, a wine must be at least 70% Sangiovese and use no more than 10% white grapes, like Malvasia or Trebbiano. With other wines, like Super Tuscans, the blending ratios are left up to the producer.
Today, blends are based on what each grape brings to the mix. With GSM blends, the Grenache is responsible for the wine’s bright red fruit and floral notes. The Syrah brings dark fruits, spices, and smokiness. Mourvèdre delivers structure, earthiness, and firm tannins. In the hands of a skilled winemaker, the result is a beautifully balanced and complex wine.
Blending didn’t take hold until the 1800’s and was less about taste and more about being a hedge against Mother Nature. A certain year could see less ripe Cabernet Sauvignon grapes while the Merlot overripens and the Cab Franc ripens nicely. Blending the grapes together could balance out any individual deficiencies and keep two thirds of a harvest from going to waste.