Merlot - Best Supporting Actor (of Wines)

Some wines or wine regions are the vinicultural equivalent of old Hollywood movie stars. Wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir or regions like Burgundy, Napa and Bordeaux are the stars of the show. We all know and love them. Other wines are more like great character actors. 
 
A lot of wines live in the shadow of other, more famous neighbors or varietals. Aligoté is eclipsed by Chardonnay in Burgundy. The red blends of Gigondas are seen as the little brother of Chateauneuf du Pape. The white wines of Piedmont, Arneis, Gavi and Timorasso, are usually an afterthought to the region’s red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera. 
 
So, why are some wines always cast as the lead, while others, equally strong in their own way, are forced to play supporting roles? 
 
Some of it is branding. Chateauneuf du Pape translates as the Pope’s new castle and stems from 1309, when Pope Clement V relocated the papacy to Avignon. An endorsement from the Pope is hard to beat, even when your name, Gigondas, translates from the Latin Jocunditas as great pleasure. 
 
Economics can play a role as well. The reputation of Gattinara’s red wines, made from Nebbiolo which is known locally as Spana, once eclipsed that of Barolo, Barbaresco and Burgundy. However, the mid-1950’s was a time of economic ruin for the region and many of those working in the vineyards left to find manufacturing jobs in larger cities, an almost fatal blow for winemaking in this this northern Piedmontese region. 
 
Even movies themselves have the power to demote or elevate a wine. Character actor Paul Giamatti’s character Miles in the 2004 movie Sideways singlehandedly demoted Merlot to supporting status while making Pinot Noir the new “it” grape of California wineries. * 
 
We’ll be giving some of our favorite supporting grapes a much-deserved moment in the spotlight this weekend.  

 
* The damage done to Merlot is even more amazing since the following two lines are the only time Merlot is mentioned in the entire film: 
Jack: “If they want to drink Merlot, we’re drinking Merlot.” 
Miles: “No. If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any fucking Merlot!”